El Salvador holds a captivating allure with its multifaceted appeal. My personal connection to this country traces back to my youth, intertwined with a rich history that has shaped my perspective. A significant facet of my bond with El Salvador stems from my parental heritage – both of my parents hail from this intriguing land.
In a notable development, I’ve recently acquired El Salvador citizenship, a noteworthy achievement as of 2023. The details of this process, I’d be more than willing to elaborate upon in a separate post.
El Salvador’s tapestry of experiences, heritage, and newfound citizenship has imbued my journey with a profound sense of depth and resonance.
In both July 2023 and July 2021, I had the privilege of immersing myself in the enchanting allure of El Salvador. While this nation captured my heart, its intricacies still retain an air of mystery. One notable aspect that I encountered during my visits is the importance of being mindful of the rainy season, which stretches from May to October.
Despite the unpredictable weather patterns, a profound affection for El Salvador has flourished within me. Its distinctive charm has struck a chord that resonates deeply, even though I may not yet fully grasp all its intricacies. My extensive journeys to other tropical paradises have only heightened my curiosity and strengthened my desire to delve deeper into the enchantments concealed within El Salvador.
Quick Facts:
- Nickname: Often referred to as the “land of volcanoes” due to its striking landscape dotted with numerous active and dormant volcanoes.
- Currency Transition: The official currency shifted from the Salvadoran Colón (used from 1892 to 2001) to the U.S. dollar in 2001, streamlining trade and economic interactions.
- Compact Size: El Salvador is smaller than the state of Massachusetts, making it the smallest country in Central America in terms of land area.
- Independence Journey: El Salvador declared its initial independence from Spanish rule in 1821. However, it achieved full sovereignty in 1841 following the dissolution of the Federal Republic of Central America.
- Languages Spoken: While Spanish is the predominant language, Nahua, an indigenous language, also finds a presence within the country’s linguistic tapestry.
- Key Exports: El Salvador’s exports are diverse and include commodities like coffee, sugar, corn, rice, shrimp, and beef, contributing to its economic vitality.
These quick facts provide a glimpse into the rich tapestry of El Salvador’s history, culture, and economic landscape.
Flight
I departed on a direct non-stop flight from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) to El Salvador’s Monseñor Óscar Arnulfo Romero International Airport (SAL) with Avianca Airlines. Interestingly, this airline had a previous incarnation as Taca Airlines, which continues to operate under the Avianca banner. Opting for the 1 AM departure, I touched down at 7 AM local time, as El Salvador adheres to the Central Standard Time (CST) zone.
Navigating customs was a brief and straightforward process. Thanks to my El Salvador citizenship, I was exempt from paying the customary tourist visa fee upon entry, which typically amounts to $12 USD and offers a 90-day validity. It’s worth noting that my citizenship allows me the freedom to extend my stay at will.
Emerging from customs, the sight that greeted me was a multitude of families eagerly awaiting their loved ones’ arrivals. The sheer number of expectant faces was a bit overwhelming, casting a spotlight on my exit and evoking a sense of being under scrutiny.
Renting a Car
I decided I did not want to rely on public transportation, Uber, or family since this was a short trip. I got the source of this rental car company through an instagram account I follow of a season traveler that had previously used them. Eco Rent A Car ES is the company I used. I contacted them via their website and all communication followed on WhatsApp. Initially communication was great and they provided all the details. They requested a photo of my driver license, flight itinerary, a deposit of $100 USD to make a reservation. I was fine with everything except that they wanted to me to make the deposit via a link using a platform called Wompi. Initial thoughts kind of sketchy, but upon a little research I found out Wompi belongs to BanColombia. I’ve never seen this service throughout my travels in latin america. I kindly asked if there was another form of payment, no answer for a whole day, afterwards I asked if I can pay upon arrival. They stated yes, but would require an additional 10% charge.
Cost for 3 days was $120 USD for the car rental including insurance $40 USD / day. Pick up and drop off is at the airport.
After some confusion on their end, they scrambled to get me a car were going to run late since they had to take it to a car wash. I had rented a Toyota Corolla and instead they bought me a Nissan Sentra. Unfortunately since it was Sunday they claimed the car washed were closed and brought me a dirty car. At that point I just wanted to get going and start my adventure.
Fuel Prices in the Capital of San Salvador
In El Salvador, it’s common to find full-service gas stations where attendants assist with various aspects of refueling your vehicle. These attendants typically pump your gas, check your oil levels, and ensure that your tire pressure is at the appropriate levels.
Indeed, you can come across luxury cars in El Salvador. While the country may have economic challenges, it also has a diverse population with varying levels of wealth, and some individuals do own and drive luxury vehicles. The presence of luxury cars in El Salvador reflects the country’s socio-economic diversity.
Day 1:
Embarking on my journey, I directed myself toward the capital city in search of a satisfying breakfast. My GPS guided me to the Grand Via, an upscale district within the capital’s bounds. En route, I made a pit stop at a full-service gas station, where fuel was procured by the liter – a unique facet of the local fueling experience.
Later, as I wandered through the bustling streets, a specific establishment caught my attention. I couldn’t resist its allure, and soon I stood at the entrance of San Martin Bakery, a renowned chain located in the Merilot area. The long queues outside were a testament to its popularity, and the welcoming atmosphere, along with the refreshing relief of air conditioning, made it an even more inviting prospect.
My choice for breakfast was the desayuno tipico, a quintessential morning offering. This delightful ensemble featured fried eggs adorned with a flavorful ranchera sauce. Complementing this were two delectable pupusas of my choosing, accompanied by beans and plantains. Naturally, no Salvadoran breakfast would be complete without a cup of coffee, and I indulged in this aromatic tradition. The meal was thoughtfully accompanied by an invigorating orange juice, as well as dainty mini French rolls and two tantalizing mini pastries, culminating in a truly satisfying experience.
“El Salvador is known for their coffee”
Subsequently, I stumbled upon a SuperSelectos, a prominent grocery emporium that boasts an extensive array of products. My purpose for this visit was two-fold: to acquire necessities for my forthcoming road trip to the beach and to replenish the supplies at the Airbnb.
In addition to my grocery stop, I made a detour to a local pharmacy. My mother had requested a few items, and it was my pleasure to fulfill her wishes. An intriguing revelation awaited me there – I learned that possession of the national identification card, known as the “DUI” or “Documento Único de Identidad,” entitles one to a discount on medications. This unexpected piece of information shed light on a valuable aspect of local healthcare practices.
The day’s discoveries reinforced the notion that even routine errands can unveil fascinating insights into the local way of life.
Gran Via
The Gran Via stands as an enticing open-air shopping district adorned with a medley of restaurants and cafes. The sweltering heat prompted me to seek refuge, and what better refuge than Tucson Steak House restaurant, where I could indulge in an ice-cold beer.
Just as I was getting ready to leave, a torrential downpour enveloped the area. I seized the opportunity presented by this unexpected weather by indulging in a leisurely lunch and savoring a refreshing Pilsener de El Salvador on tap, known for its hoppier lager profile. This impromptu rain delay turned out to be a pleasant chance to relax and unwind.
Indeed, the Gran Via serves as a versatile hub, offering a diverse range of amenities that cater to all facets of one’s journey.
Airbnb
I opted for an Airbnb located in close proximity to the charming beachside town of El Tunco, often referred to as Surf City. The Airbnb, known as Casa Tranquila and hosted by Katrin, turned out to be a haven of serenity. Katrin’s exceptional hospitality resonated throughout the home, truly encapsulating the essence of tranquility. This serene abode proved to be an ideal hub for my adventures.
El Tunco, situated roughly 45 minutes to an hour away from the airport, became my chosen destination. Its reputation as a surfer’s paradise and a laid-back coastal haven did not disappoint.
El Tunco – Surf City
I decided to venture into the heart of the little town to experience its Sunday night ambiance. Conversations with locals had informed me that Sundays were relatively tranquil, yet still attracted a decent crowd of people unwinding. For a full-blown El Tunco revelry, it was advised to plan a visit between Thursday and Saturday.
My chosen spot for the Sunday night escapade was Kako’s Gastrobar, a vibrant establishment bustling with the most lively crowd and pulsating music of the evening. Captivated by the atmosphere, I opted for a Suprema beer, a delightful El Salvador lager. As the night progressed, I had the fortune of crossing paths with some amiable locals who extended an invitation to join them at their table. Engaged in great conversations and enjoying their company, I found myself there until the bar’s closing time.
Day 2
Upon waking up, I headed to El Tunco for breakfast, following one of the recommendations from my Airbnb host. I chose Point Break cafe, renowned for its exceptional coffee. The coffee certainly lived up to its reputation. For my meal, I opted for The Tunco Bagel, a delightful combination of red beans, eggs, sliced avocado, and cheese.
Afterwards, I strolled around town, exploring its nooks and crannies. I stumbled upon a childhood favorite – nanaces, or yellow cherries – and bought a small bag for just $0.25. Given the country’s abundant fruit offerings, I also indulged in a refreshing green juice smoothie.
After my refreshing fruit break, I resumed my beachfront exploration. I strolled along the different stretches of beach, eventually stumbling upon a tranquil spot where I could relax and watch the surfers in their element. Surfing lessons were being offered for approximately $25 per hour, and the icing on the cake was the opportunity to rent the surfboards for additional practice sessions.
Overall, my day in El Tunco was a delightful blend of flavors, sights, and the mesmerizing rhythm of the waves.
In the afternoon I went to Multiplaza in the Capital to meet with my Uncle. While waiting I explored the fancy mall and was in awe to see it flourishing. Once we met I got back in the car and headed towards Picnic Steak House which is located on the slopes of the San Salvador volcano, you have to take the route that takes you to El Boquerón National Park.
What is at Picnic Steak House?
The iconic attraction that has captured the imagination of many is none other than the Rainbow Slide, a renowned feature nestled within the premises of the Picnic Steak House restaurant. A visit to El Salvador would be incomplete without indulging in this unique experience. Its allure is undeniable, making it a must-see destination for anyone seeking to immerse themselves in the charm of this country.
Regrettably, I arrived at the renowned rainbow slide that offers panoramic views of the city after nightfall had descended. A hint of disappointment lingered as the opportunity to witness the cityscape in the glow of sunset had slipped away.
Partaking in the exhilarating slide comes at a cost of $5.00 USD per person. Each ticket procured grants the holder the pleasure of a single exhilarating slide down the colorful chute. It’s a tantalizing proposition, one that beckons with the promise of an unforgettable experience.
Subsequently, we departed from Picnic Steak House and ascended the mountain for approximately three minutes to reach a locale known as Plaza Volcan. This spot boasted breathtaking vistas of the city, as well as an array of dining establishments. Since it was late in the evening, my uncle and I chose one of the few establishments that were still open.
Our dinner destination was Las Carnitas Steak House. We decided to share a dish known as “picada para 2,” which comprised chorizo, beans, potatoes, queso fresco, half of a beef, tortillas, rice, and a petite serving of soup.
Day 3:
On this ultimate day of my mini adventure, I once again ventured into the charming town of El Tunco for breakfast. I couldn’t resist returning to Point Break Cafe, not only because it evokes memories of the film starring Keanu Reeves but also because their coffee is truly exceptional. This time, I indulged in an egg and ham crepe.
As I savored my meal, I decided to continue my exploration, hoping to rediscover fragments of my childhood. Walking through the streets of El Salvador, I couldn’t help but recollect the mixed emotions I experienced back then. I was surrounded by a tapestry of unique cultural differences that, as a young child, I couldn’t fully grasp. Although I didn’t grow up in El Salvador, my mother used to travel here frequently before my siblings came along. Now, you can better understand why these memories hold such significance from my early years.
After rejuvenating myself with a cooling and revitalizing juice, I returned to my Airbnb to contemplate my next steps. My heart was set on visiting the Tamanique waterfalls, yet I found myself in a quandary. I hadn’t made any tour reservations, and I was uncertain about embarking on this adventure solo.
After conducting some thorough research, I discovered that I didn’t necessarily need to reserve a tour through an agency. However, it was obligatory to enlist the services of an official tourism guide available at the local tour office in the town of Tamanique. Realizing that time was not in my favor and taking into account the stories I had heard about afternoon rains making hiking more challenging, I swiftly hopped into my rental car and embarked on the journey. The drive from my Airbnb to the town of Tamanique took approximately 22 minutes.
The journey to Tamanique proved to be a serene and picturesque drive. The road, although not in impeccable condition, had its share of potholes that required my careful navigation. With its winding path, I encountered a few trucks and buses along the way that momentarily slowed down my progress.
Upon reaching Tamanique, I wasted no time in locating the tourism office. I swiftly parked and hurried inside, eager not to miss the 1 PM tour. I promptly checked in, paying the $3 USD fee at the tourism office and an additional $4 USD to the local guide. Fortunately, luck was on my side as I crossed paths with a Salvadoran family from Virginia, USA, who kindly welcomed me to join their tour. They even offered me a ride in the back of their pickup truck to the trailhead entrance.
Upon arriving at the welcome sign, I discovered that there was an additional fee of $2.50 required for entrance to the property where the waterfalls were situated. It became known to me by the local guide that the waterfalls were located on private property, necessitating this extra cost.
First glimpse of the waterfall # 3
While I didn’t have the chance to explore all the waterfalls, I had a delightful experience at waterfall #3, especially appreciated in the sweltering and humid weather. I’d highly recommend wearing water shoes, as the terrain can be slippery and consists of many rocks, ensuring a safer and more enjoyable journey.
For my final dinner of the trip, I decided to indulge in a variety of options to savor the best of all worlds.
While strolling through the town, I stumbled upon an area filled with shops and restaurants. The enticing strains of music led me to a cozy, sit-down restaurant with an atmosphere that instantly appealed to me. I placed an order for fish tacos, as I hadn’t had any seafood throughout the entire trip. To complement my meal, I opted for a tamarind margarita.
For my second meal, I couldn’t depart from El Salvador without savoring a pupusa.
What exactly is a pupusa?
In straightforward terms, a pupusa consists of thick corn tortillas that are stuffed with a variety of delicious fillings. Personally, my preferred pupusa variety is one stuffed with beans, cheese, and a hint of jalapeños, adding a delightful kick to the flavor.
- You have to add the pickled cabbage (curtido) and tomato sauce (salsa)
- I did not know the locals add Salsa Inglesa (worcestershire sauce)
- Locals eat pupusas with their hands (if you have utensils automatically you are a foreigner)
Last but certainly not least, it’s essential to be aware that El Salvador is encircled by volcanoes. According to information provided by the United States Geological Survey website, El Salvador is prone to earthquakes owing to its geographical location and vulnerability factors. Thus, seismic activity is a real concern in the region.
Being a Californian, I’m accustomed to earthquakes, but during my time in El Salvador, I did, in fact, experience one. Initially reported as a 5.6 magnitude earthquake, it was subsequently upgraded to a 6.5. The earthquake occurred offshore, approximately 80 miles away from my location in El Tunco. It serves as a reminder of the seismic activity that can occur in various parts of the world.
Should you need emergency services from the U.S. Embassy. The United States Embassy in San Salvador has consular jurisdiction for all of El Salvador.
*This information was obtain from their website*
Address: U.S. Embassy San Salvador
Final Boulevard Santa Elena
Antiguo Cuscatlán, La Libertad
Telephone: (503) 2501-2999
Fax: (503) 2501-2150
In Case of Emergency
If you need to contact us for emergencies during normal business hours, please contact the American Citizens Services (ACS) Unit by phone at + (503) 2501-2628.
For recorded information about our services, please dial + (503) 2501-2600. You may also contact us by e-mail at ACSSanSal@state.gov or by fax at + (503) 2278-6020 or + (503) 2278-5522.
For After-hour Emergencies, you may call + (503) 2501-2999. This phone number is ONLY for assistance in an emergency directly affecting a U.S. Citizen in El Salvador. Emergencies include death, arrest, kidnapping, missing persons, child abduction, medical emergencies, victims of crime, and lost or stolen passports with an imminent scheduled travel.
Time to say good-bye
Clearing customs turned out to be a breeze for me. I had taken advantage of the online check-in process, and I was traveling with just a carry-on backpack, making the entire procedure quick and efficient.
The journey from El Tunco to the airport typically takes around an hour or so. It’s advisable to allocate ample time, especially if you need to return a rental car or in case you encounter a delay caused by a sheep and goat crossing.
Adios vos – salu – See you soon El Salvador
Traveling with Dimas 